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Cozumel Restaurants &
Food
DiningLocal lobster, native grilled fish and
a variety of Mexican dishes such as tacos, enchiladas or
caracol (a giant conch) predominate at Cozumel's
restaurants and roadside stands. Several superb native
eateries within a few blocks of the pier offer island
specialties such as grilled turtle, grilled fish in banana
leaves, conch cocktail and spicy steak strips. All in all,
dining is quite good in Cozumel whether you choose
romantic garden dining with strolling serenaders or a
fast snack at one of the many stands. Music is featured at
most restaurants and hotel bars on Cozumel, and the island
has a number of discos, including Scaramouche and Neptuno.
Food
Pepe's GrillPepe's Grill on Ave. Rafael Melgar
features savory steaks, lobster and seafood. ? 2-02-13.
Café Del Puerto
Cafe Del Puerto at the plaza
is one of Cozumel's best spots for lobster and crab. You'll
be entertained with live guitar music. ? 2-03-16.
El Portal
El Portal offers fabulous
Mexican-style spicy breakfasts. ? 2-03-16.
Carlos and Charlies and
Jimmy's Kitchen
Carlos' N Charlies and Jimmy's
Kitchen, on Ave. Rafael Melgar 11, is a divers' favorite
for Mexican steaks and seafood. ? 2-01-91.
La Palmeras
La Palmeras, at the pier (27
Rafael Melgar), is a good spot for breakfast and lunch. ? 2-
05-32.
La LagunaLa Laguna, on the beach at Chankanab
National Park, serves up tasty shrimp, crabs and fish. ? 2-
05-84.
Pizza Rolandi
Pizza Rolandi, on Ave. Melgar
22, specializes in Italian favorites.
Cozumel - Best Places To Eat
For
a resort destination, Cozumel's dining prices are quite
reasonable, inexpensive even. The same fine food, service
and ambiance in a metropolitan area of the United States
would cost significantly more. There are plenty of places
on Cozumel where you can get a good meal for a bargain
price. If you're low on funds, the absolute cheapest places
to eat are the small, limited-menu fast food loncherias
near the mercado and the central plaza. In the
afternoon, the lunch crowd - which includes cruise
passengers - spreads down the south coast where a series of
Mexican restaurants dot idyllic white sand beaches. They
serve up cold beers, fresh seafood and tasty Mexican
dishes, while you swim or sun or stroll the beach. In some,
you can eat under individual palapa umbrellas right on the
beach.
If you're looking for
good food at a good price, we've selected a number of sit-
down restaurants that are well worth visiting. Many of the
nightlife places in Cozumel are a restaurant with a bar on
the side - or vice versa - so check in the nightlife
section for additional eateries of note. ¡ Buen apetito!
Alive Price Scale
(per person, not including beverage)
Inexpensive less than US $6 Moderate US
$7-$13 Expensive over US
$14
El Moro
75 Bis Norte #124, between Calle 2 & 4
% 987/2-30-29
Inexpensive
El Moro is impossible to find for most tourists. Get a cab
or go west past the circle on Av. Juárez until you get to
the large new Pemex station on the left. Make a left just
before, then make the first right and the first left.
You'll find El Moro, or 'The Moor,' on a bumpy dirt street
in a residential area. It's a very popular place with
diners in the know, offering an extensive menu (in both
English and Spanish) of Mexican regional dishes and fresh
seafood. Once you try any of the varied menu choices,
you'll wonder why you bothered to eat anywhere else on the
island. Giant drinks, excellent food - it's an unbeatable
value. Closed Thursday.
La Choza
Calle Rosado Salas at Av. 10 Sur %
987/20958 Inexpensive/Moderate La Choza has a big
palapa roof over its corner dining area with large windows.
It has the reputation for the best comida tipica (typical
Yucatecan-Mexican food) on the island. Our pork stew and
beefsteak in pepper sauce was very well prepared and very
tasty.
Casa Denis
Calle 1 Sur % 987/20067
Inexpensive/Moderate The yellow wooden house on the
right as you walk up Calle Uno is Casa Denis. A few tables
are set out front in the pedestrian-only street, but there
are two small dining parlors inside and some more tables in
the shady back garden patio. It offers tasty light or full
Mexican and Yucatecan home-style meals - as well as fresh
seafood. Been there, doing that, since 1945.
Las Palmeras
At the ferry pier % 987/21-38-6
Moderate When it comes to location, location,
location, Las Palmeras has got it, got it, got it.
Certainly not the cheapest nor even the best restaurant on
Cozumel, this cool and breezy palm-planted open-air corner
spot is nevertheless very tempting. Its decor is appealing,
it's right at the ferry dock and the food smells good. We
find it awfully hard to get off the ferry hungry and pass
by without at least a look at their menu. Sea breezes and
oversized awnings keep it cool inside. Best time is off
hours.
Morgan's
Av. Juárez on the north side of the plaza
% 987/20-88-4 Moderate There is enough polished
wood in this Caribbean-styled restaurant to make a another
ship for the pirate Henry Morgan, who once used Cozumel's
protected waters to hide from the English and Spanish
navies. The distinguished building, with a large wrap-
around porch for dining, is the harbor town's former
Customs house. The international and seafood menu,
impeccable service and nautical ambiance make Morgan's the
place for a refined night out or a celebratory lunch after
striking good shopping bargains in the mercado nearby. Live
music in the evening. Open 11 to 11.
Hooks
Av. Adolfo Rosado Salas %
987/25757 Moderate This is one of Cozumel's newest
large restaurants. It almost seems to be an outdoor
restaurant because the dining area is under a high
translucent roof and is filled with growing plants. They
claim it has the atmosphere of a pirate's den - always
boisterous and happy. Yo-ho-ho and a bottle of
tequila! Good Mexican food, a friendly bar and strong
drinks have given Hooks a reputation as a fun place to eat
and party. Open 10:30 am - 3 am, no cover.
Los Almendros
Calle 2 North No. 101 % 987/26071
Moderate Cozumel hosts the newest branch (1998) of
the traditional Yucatecan restaurant chain that had its
beginnings in the market town of Ticul in the 1960s. The
chef created a dish called poc chuc (made from thin fillets
of pork marinated in sour orange and grilled with onions),
which has now become synonymous with Yucatecan cuisine.
This location doesn't use the photo menus you'll see in
other branches, and its ambiance is much more pleasing.
Dining is on checkered cotton tablecloths with attractive
china. There is seating on a pretty garden terrace as well
as in pleasant indoor dining rooms. This restaurant has
very high standards. We love the Maya anchiote paste that
gives the regional food its distinctive
flavor.
Pancho's
Backyard Av. Melgar and Calle 8 %
987/22057 Moderate/Expensive In the rear of Los
Cinco Soles, Cozumel's most famous shopping store, is
Pancho's Backyard, a lovely courtyard restaurant under
Colonial arches and loads of greenery. In the early 1900s
the building was a warehouse that stored bales of dried
resin from the zapote tree, the basic ingredient of chewing
gum and Quintana Roo's main export.
In 1960 it became a hotel.
In 1990, after four years of extensive renovation, it
opened as a large store, art gallery and restaurant. The
charming atmosphere is matched by delicious food - generous
servings of Mexican dishes and seafood, cappuccino and
expresso coffees and awesome margaritas. Try the bananas
Susana dessert with a café Maya expresso. Yum!
'The Lobster
House' Northern Coastal Rd., Km 4 %
987/20795 Expensive Follow the coast road north,
past the airport and marina, until you find an incongruous
red British telephone booth. Cross a wooden footbridge and
discover the best lobster dinner on the island. The Lobster
House, a Cozumel fixture since 1983, is located in a Maya-
style hut beneath a traditional thatched roof. Hidden back
from the road among banana trees and jungle vegetation, the
lobster-tail-only restaurant is a small, dark, intimate
eatery with a nautical decor and screened windows
overlooking the thick jungle. They've served dinner the
same way since their inception: You choose a locally
caught, fresh lobster - usually a Caribbean spiney - from a
tray. The tail is then grilled to order. Meals come with
all-you-can-eat rice and steamed vegetables. Prices change
daily, depending on the market and weight, but the average
dinner price is around US $20. No credit cards. Open from 6
pm to 10:30 pm.
El Guacamayo
Northern Coastal Rd., Km 4 % 987/68703
Moderate/Expensive Connected to the Lobster House
by a wooden footbridge over a mini-lagoon and the jungle
floor is the Guacamayo, which advertises itself as
the 'King Crab House.' The restaurant is a candlelit palapa
building with a nautical decor of lobster pots and hanging
nets and floats, red tiled floors and tiled tables - all in
a jungle setting. Soft music plays in the
background. The photo menu features local king crab,
seafood and steaks. A delicious experience. No credit
cards. Open seven days a week from 6 pm - 10:30 pm.
Playa Paso del
Cedral Southern Coastal Rd., opposite the turn
for the Cedral Maya ruins No telephone Moderate
There are a series of lunch restaurants stretching down
the southern coast's little beaches. They're all good, but
this very rustic one is unique. A little palapa restaurant
with a sand floor and plastic tables, it is known for
seafood so fresh the local fishermen pull their boats up in
front to unload their catch. Located in a public park with
palm trees and a nice white sand beach perfect for swimming
and snorkeling, you can spend hours of an afternoon here,
watching the dive boats motoring past. Or practicing your
Spanish with the agreeable cook. This is one of the
most 'primitive' in a series of intriguing beachfront
restaurants that attract day-trippers and cruise ship
crowds for long pleasurable lunches.
La Veranda
Calle 4, 11/2 blocks in from the seafront
% 987/24132 Moderate/Expensive La Veranda is a
Caribbean-style eatery with a relaxed atmosphere, classy
ambiance and fine fusion cooking. Tucked on a side street
in a typical Caribbean house behind a small front garden
and long porch, its wooden beams and trim dominate the air-
conditioned interior dining and bar area. The menu is
creative and appetizing, a pleasant change. Seafood dishes
are the specialty. Their signature dinner is a mixed
platter of fish, shrimp, octopus, lobster and squid (US $36
for two). More to our tastes was the jerked chicken,
a spicy hot chicken with rice. For the most romantic
setting, try the back porch - la veranda - where tables are
set up to overlook a softly lighted tropical garden patio.
A few wrought iron tables are also available in the garden,
which boasts a fountain and antique lamp post. Opens at 6
pm.
Prima
Av. Adolfo Rosado Salas No. 109 % 987/2-42-
42 Moderate/Expensive Breezy terrace dining
upstairs is primo at Prima, an Italian restaurant
specializing in Northern Italian seafood dishes, brick-oven
pizzas, calzones and handmade pastas. You'd think with the
proliferation of Italian restaurants in Cancún and across
the water in Playa del Carmen that there would be many more
Italian restaurants on Cozumel. Fortunately, Prima's
rooftop garden dining is good enough to satisfy our
desperate need for excellent Italian food. Very popular.
They take credit cards and offer a non-smoking area. Open
from 4 pm - 11 pm.
Esquisse Art
Café Av. Adolfo Rosado Salas % 987/2-57-47
Inexpensive The Esquisse Art Café joins a growing
number of tucked-away Cozumel coffee houses that cater to
European and cosmopolitan American tastes. Opened in
October 1997, the Café serves several exotic coffees and
teas, breakfast, quiches and light snacks, tarts, cakes,
ice creams and sorbets. Seating is on a mixed bag of
comfortable furniture which, with original art and posters
on the walls, provides that satisfying homey ambiance.
Features a coffee bean gift shop.
Jeanie's Waffle
House Oceanfront in Hotel Vista del Mar %
987/2-05-45 Inexpensive We could only love an
eatery with a name like 'Waffle House.' It's the kind of
place where we can relax our 'going native' facade and chow
down on what we haven't had for a while - feel-good food
such as hot cakes and ice cream. Besides waffles and crêpes
to crow about, owners Raul and Jeannie DeLille feature
excellent steak and regional dishes. Even more to our
plebeian tastes is digging into a big home-style breakfast
for dinner. Open 6 am - 10 pm.
Alfalfa's
Restaurant Calle 1, just west of
pedestrian mall Reservations not necessary
Inexpensive Clean and neat behind large glass
windows, this air-conditioned vegetarian and health food
restaurant has a good reputation for tasty food at
reasonable prices. Also serves fish and chicken
dishes. Open from lunch to 8 pm. The other Alfalfa's
healthy restaurant is in the B&B Caribo (see
above).
More Munchies
Other restaurants that deserve a mention are
Sonora Grill (Av. 15 between Juaréz & Calle 2), Western
Grill (a half-block south of the plaza), Tony Rome's Steaks
(Av. 5 South), Coconuts (Eastern shore), Ernesto's Fajitas
(Av. Melgar), Las Tortugas (West Indian and Mexican food at
Av. 10 North), El Solar (Av. 5 South), Natural (upstairs
Av. Salas between 15 and 20), Muy Mexicano (all you can eat
on Av. 3 South) and the little-discovered gem: Bon Appetit
(Av. 30 between Hidalgo and 7 south).
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