COZUMEL NIGHTLIFE

Like shopping, dining centers around san miguel. Expect casual atmosphere and friendly service. The island's 100-plus restaurants and cafes cater to every budget and taste. There is a surprising variety of ethnic dining, from Italian to French and Lebanese to Japanese.

El Aquario: oceanfront seafood dining; large saltwater aquariums and tanks. El Arrecife: Italian and Mediterranean cuisine; ocean views. Big Julians: romantic dining on the waterfront; live music. La Cabana del Pescador: tropical garden atmosphere; live lobster. Cafe Caribe Espresso Bar: gourmet coffee and specialty blends from Mexico, the Caribbean, and South America. El Capi Navegante: locals' favorite for seafood. Carlos 'n Charlie's: party atmosphere; very good American and Mexican food. Casa Denis: since 1945; serving family-style dishes (no menu). La Choza: the island's best Mexican food. Ernesto's Fajitas: the original fajitas factory; open since 1985. Downtown at the pier. El Foco: authentic Mexican Tacos. Gallito Sol: nouvelle cuisine including steaks, salads, soups. Hard Rock Cozumel: American fare with quality and consistency. Store sells all the Hard Rock paraphernalia. Morgan's: nautical mahogany and brass, candlelight setting; international menu. A long established tradition. Las Palmeras: a long-time favorite that's always busy; at the pier downtown. Pizza Rolandi: outdoor patio dining features pizza, lasagna, calzone. Plaza Leza: international dining at sidewalk tables near the main plaza. Pepe's Grill: great ocean views to match the extensive menu of seafood, steaks and Mexican dishes. Pancho's Backyard: gourmet patio dining and tasty Mexican favorites. On the waterfront inside the Cinco Soles store. Prima: Northern Italian cuisine with pasta, seafood, homemade bread. D'Pub: charming patio restaurant serving Mexican, English and Asian dishes. Santiago's Grill: grilled beef, chicken, seafood plus fun atmosphere. Sports Page: big screen TV and burgers. Tony Rome Steakhouse: Texas-style ribs, steak and jazz/swing music.

Evening entertainment begins and ends early in Cozumel, compared to the rest of Mexico. Restaurants are full by 8pm; discos wind down by midnight. Top discos include Scaramouche, Neptuno and El Camaleon. For more "lively" entertainment, Platino's offers exotic dancers who perform to disco music. Live tropical music is easy to find in many hotel lobbies. El Caribeno at the Presidente has a live Marimba band and a trio. The Fiesta Inn Hotel has a popular Karaoke Bar. The ever-popular "Fiesta Night" is a fun, all-inclusive party under the stars. Joe's Lobster Pub offers dancing to lively salsa and reggae music; live bands. The Hard Rock Cafe is another favorite, and a Planet Hollywood opened in late 1996.

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